the Nikon D5100 and the Canon T3i

The latest addition to the Nikon dSLR line-up is the versatile Nikon D5100, which replaces the D5000. It sits just above the D3100 in the Nikon consumer offerings, and a bit below the D90 and D7000 – both sturdier and more sophisticated cameras. The D5100 boasts a 16 megapixel sensor (like the D7000), and a swivel screen more like the one on the Canon T3i and 60D, attached at the left side, rather than the less convenient bottom swivel of the previous D5000. (see my post comparing several of the latest Canon dSLR cameras here, and one comparing the Nikons here.)

Nikon D5100 book manual how to instruction download vs Canon T3i
Nikon D5100 – photo by author – copyright 2011 – please do not use without permission!

The D5100 shoots 4 frames per second, faster than the 3 fps of the D3100, and of course has 1080p HD video with all the frame rate options. The D5100 now has in-camera processing filters like those of the 60D and T3i (including miniature, high or low key, and selective color in the Nikon). And it has the 11 point AF system, with one cross type sensor, like the D3100.

Canon T3i vs Nikon D5100 compare side by side
Canon Rebel T3i on left, Nikon D5100 on right

First, a Comparison of the Nikon D5100 vs. the Canon Rebel T3i specs, to see how they stack up “on paper”:

Canon Rebel T3i / EOS 600D

  • 18 megapixels
  • Articulating rear LCD screen
  • 1080p HD video with all the frame rate options
  • 9 point autofocus system with 1 cross-type sensor
  • 3.7 frames per second continuous shooting for a maximum 34 JPEG burst
  • 63 zone dual layer exposure metering system – the same as the one in the 60D and 7D
  • In-camera image processing filters plus RAW to JPEG, cropping, and other options
  • Some scene modes
  • ISO range 100-6400
  • 95% viewfinder with .85 magnification
  • 1.26 lbs with battery
  • Accepts optional battery pack / vertical grip – the Canon BG-E8
  • Wireless flash control of external Speedlites with built-in flash
  • Compatible with and autofocuses with all Canon EF and EF-S lenses
  • Depth of Field preview button
  • Full manual video exposure control
  • Exposure Simulation of approximate image exposure and histogram in all Live View shooting modes

Canon T3i vs Nikon D5100 compare side by side
Canon Rebel T3i on left, Nikon D5100 on right

Nikon D5100

  • 16 megapixels
  • Articulating rear LCD screen
  • 1080p HD video with all the frame rate options
  • 11 point autofocus system with 1 cross-type sensor
  • 4 frames per second continuous shooting for a maximum 100 JPEG burst
  • 420 pixel RGB metering sensor like the one in the D3100, not the 2016 pixel RGB metering sensor found in the D7000.
  • In-camera image processing filters
  • A lot of scene modes
  • ISO range 100-6400
  • 95% viewfinder with .78 magnification
  • 1.2 lbs with battery
  • Does not offer an official Nikon optional battery pack-vertical grip (3rd party grip now available)
  • No wireless flash control of external Speedlights with the built-in flash
  • No autofocus motor in body, and will not autofocus with non-AF-S lenses, such as the 50mm f/1.8
  • No Depth of Field preview button
  • Also an auto HDR feature where the camera combines 2 images to create an image with extended tonal range.
  • NO full manual video exposure control
  • Exposure Simulation of approximate exposure in P, A, S Live View shooting modes.  NO Exposure Simulation in M mode.  NO histogram in any Live View mode.

Canon T3i vs Nikon D5100 compare side by side
Canon Rebel T3i on left, Nikon D5100 on right

As you can see, both cameras are incredibly similar as far as specifications, and it looks as if the price may even be nearly the same.  The wireless flash capability, better exposure metering system, and ability to autofocus with all compatible lenses are all definite advantages for the Canon T3i.  But the D5100 offers in-camera Auto Distortion Correction (such as when using a wide-angle lens) and a faster rate and higher number of continuous shots in a single burst.  (But with any camera, consider if you ever really need to take a 100 shot burst, much less a 34 shot burst.  If you shoot like that, you should probably be looking at a Canon 7D or Nikon D7000!)  Another deciding factor may be which camera feels more comfortable in your hands as you are using it and accessing the typical buttons and controls (not simply holding it and and checking its weight and general “feel”), which controls and menus seem better placed and easier to navigate for you (though either are equally easy to learn and to become used to using), and which system you want to invest in for the long term (lenses, flashes, etc.).  The Canon T3i is a slightly larger camera, plus allows for the optional battery grip.  The D5100 is not compatible with an optional Nikon vertical grip (edit:  a 3rd party has now made an optional battery grip for the D5100).  A look at the image quality here seems to show that the Canon’s JPEG images straight out of the camera are sharper, have more clarity, and more color “punch,” but these types of settings are widely adjustable with the Picture Settings or Picture Controls.

Also, while the specs look similar on paper, there are numerous small differences that are encountered in actual use, which begin to add up and become significant if they affect the features and controls you will be using.  For example, one important one is how the settings are changed using the “i” or “Q” buttons and the rear LCD screen. If you change your settings often, you will see on the D5100 Information Display Screen how you have to navigate down the line through each setting to get to the one you want then enter a second menu to change it.  On the T3i Quick Control screen, you can jump quickly to the setting you want then simply turn the Main Dial to quickly change it without opening up a second menu.  So that is a speed and convenience issue that would be noticeable if you are one to change your settings often, on the fly.  And while the rear LCD screens appear nearly similar, the 3:2 aspect ration of the screen on the T3i matches its sensor ratio, so images viewed during playback are seen larger on the Canon screen than on the Nikon Screen, possibly allowing you to inspect the focus and details slightly better.

There are other small but potentially important differences between the two cameras that are worth considering if you have specific needs (especially full manual control of exposure in video mode – see below).  For example, while in Live View, both cameras have Exposure Simulation so that as you change your exposure or exposure compensation settings, you will see the approximate resulting exposure on the image on your rear LCD screen.  However, with the D5100, Exposure Simulation does not function while in Manual M shooting mode.  This could be a deal-breaker if you use and need that feature.  Using the T3i in Live View you can optionally view the histogram to help determine proper exposure, however the histogram is not available on the D5100 when using Live View in any shooting mode.

Also, do you make use of Spot Metering mode?  You may prefer the viewfinder of the T3i, as it indicates the Spot Metering area with a circle, while the D5100 does not.  But, there is a very good reason the D5100 doesn’t have the center spot, and that is because in the Nikon, Spot Metering is linked to the selected AF point, and so not necessarily to the center AF point and center of the frame.  This is obviously a very useful feature and maybe you’d prefer that your camera’s Spot Metering works that way.


Canon Rebel T3i viewfinder with 9 autofocus points and Spot Metering area indicated in center


Nikon D5100 viewfinder with 11 autofocus points but Spot Metering area not visually indicated because it is linked to the active AF point

As mentioned, it is not possible to see actual exposure simulation with the Nikon D5100 in Live View while in Manual M shooting mode. However, in the P, A, or S shooting modes, the live view image will lighten or darken to simulate the exposure settings or the exp. compensation that you set. And to add insult to injury, there is no exposure meter displayed on the Live View screen, so to check your exposure you will need to temporarily leave Live View and switch to the control panel view by pressing the [i] Button.  The Canon 60D and Canon Rebel T3i both have Exposure Simulation in all modes during Live View. On the 60D you can turn this feature off and on. On the T3i it is on automatically while in Live View.

Manual Control of Exposure in Video Mode: It was quickly discovered by D5100 users that the camera does not offer full manual control of exposure in video mode.  The T3i offers this ability.  This is pretty important if you are serious about shooting video.  However, there is a “work-around” for this deficiency.  To manually set your shutter speed, you must set the camera on Shutter-Priority Auto Mode (S) and set your desired shutter speed before going into Live View mode, use exposure compensation to obtain the aperture setting you want, and use the AE-L/AF-L Button to lock that exposure (set Custom Setting f2 for AE-Lock Hold).  If you wish to first set the aperture setting, you must set the camera on Aperture-Priority Auto Mode (A) and set your desired aperture before going into Live View mode, use exposure compensation to obtain the shutter speed setting you want, and use the AE-L/AF-L Button to lock that exposure (set Custom Setting f2 for AE-Lock Hold).

The Canon T3i comes with a much more comprehensive and user friendly user’s manual than the small brochure size user’s manual of the Nikon D5100, although the more detailed D5100 Reference Manual is available as a file on the included Reference CD.

To gain further understanding of what the specs, features, controls, and functions of these cameras mean in relation to real life shooting and camera use, have a look at the articles that compare the various current Canon dSLR models and Nikon dSLR models.

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  1. Hi DoJoKo,

    First of of, thanks a lot for such a wonderful review. I have one question though. When I used the Nik D5100 at a nearby camera store in live View and Manual (M) mode, it never quite seemed to register ANY of the changes I made to shutter : the image is supposed to go dark as the shutter speed increases right?(I was in a moderately lit room). The wierd part is that the actual image captured was dark (like it should be) but not the preview! Is there some setting on the Nikon that is wrong on the piece I tested ? If the camera cant display the changes it is making during live view – leaving me to approximate the changes I’m making, then that is a deal breaker for me. I am wondering if this is a bug that was only on the piece that I saw at the showroom, or if you saw it too.

    Reply

    1. That is a really great question! These are the kinds of features one really has to dig into the camera, menus, or manual of a new dSLR model to determine if it is actually going to meet your needs.

      It turns out that no, it is not possible to see actual exposure simulation with the Nikon D5100 in Live View while in Manual M shooting mode. However, in the P, A, or S shooting modes, the live view image will lighten or darken to simulate the exposure settings or the exp. compensation that you set. And to add insult to injury, there is no exposure meter displayed on the Live View screen, so to check your exposure you will need to temporarily leave Live View and switch to the control panel view by pressing the [i] Button.

      The Canon 60D and Canon Rebel T3i both have Exposure Simulation in all modes during Live View. On the 60D you can turn this feature off and on. On the T3i it is on automatically while in Live View.

      There is another similar potential issue with the D5100 for using manual M shooting mode with video (spoiler alert – you can’t). See this post for more info:
      http://blog.dojoklo.com/2011/07/01/full-manual-exposure-control-video-and-the-d5100/

      Reply

  2. Hi again!

    Thanks a lot for those responses! But I would like to add one more point : It isnt really that rare to use M mode in live view as you might think. I’m newbie just planning to graduate from my 5 year old Cybershot and the first thing a guy like me would do when you test a DSLR is to put it in (M) mode (thats why people look for DSLRs right?) and use live view(cause you’re not really used to the view finder thing so much). So, one more question for thy self : Are the images from Nikon sensors really that much better than the Canon? If they are, I wouldnt mind the odd quirk or two on the Nikon…If they really arent so visibly different, then I would much rather prefer the Canon!!

    Reply

    1. I wasn’t trying to imply that it is rare for others to use M and Live View, just that it is rare for ME! I can totally understand how if one made good use of Live View, you would often want to use it in M mode.

      The sensors are not always so different between the two brands, though they vary from model to model, year to year, and are always being improved. You can compare the sensors at a site called DXOmark:
      http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/eng/Cameras/Compare-Camera-Sensors/Compare-sensors

      Keep in mind, these tests the raw (but not necessarily RAW) data as it hits the sensor and do not take into account the in-camera processing software used by any camera, which is often designed to counteract the shortcomings of a camera’s sensor to maximize the actual image quality.

      Reply

  3. DoJoKlo, hi
    I was just wondering… Does it really make a difference that the Nikon D5100 has a plastic body? If so, in what sense?
    And also, are both equally good from a beginners point of view?
    Thanks.

    Regards,
    Manvi.

    Reply

    1. No, I don’t believe it makes a difference that they have plastic bodies unless you are going to using your camera in a very rugged, abusive situation, such as if you are a mountain climbing photographer. An older Rebel XT once even fell thousands of feet from an airplane and survived!
      http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/845602

      The are incredibly rugged plastic bodies that can withstand typical and even rough use. I traveled all around Peru with a plastic body Rebel XT and never had an issue.

      From a beginner’s point of view, the Nikon D5100 and the Canon T3i are incredibly similar, and you should be pleased with either. If none of the differences discussed in this post help you with your decision, then how each one feels in your hands should be a major deciding factor.

      Reply

  4. It would be nice to know which one you favor. I am almost convinced about the Canon instead of the Nikon. Owning a Nikon for several years (D70) has left me wanting for crisper and colorful photos, while all my no-DSLR Canons have given me better photos than the Nikon – in quality.

    What do you say?

    Reply

    1. Personally I favor the T3i due to the fact that Nikon left out so many of those small, but possibly important features that I discuss above. And I happen to shoot with Canon gear myself, so I prefer the design of the controls and menus. But as far as image quality, I’m not exactly sure how they compete head to head. You can have a look at dxomark and it looks like the sensor of the D5100 performs better. But also be sure to have a look at dpreview, where you can compare D5100 and T3i images head to head.

      They both should be able to give you crisp clear photos if you carefully set the Picture Controls to your preferences for sharpness and color, or if you do some post-processing of the files.

      Reply

  5. First of all, thank you for your in-depth comparison.
    In testing both D5100 and T3i, I noticed one difference that might just be because I don’t know how to use the settings properly in the T3i. In the D5100, I could turn off the flash but still use the red-eye/ auto focus aid light to help autofocusing in low light. This is very helpful when taking pictures in places where flash is prohibited, like museums. In the T3i, I could not do the same. The red-eye/ auto focus aid light only worked with the flash on. Would you know how to set up T3i to use this light even when the flash is turned off? Would I be able to use the infra-red light from an external flash like the 430EX II Speedlite without shooting the flash?
    Thank you so much for your help,
    Cassio

    Reply

    1. Thanks for reading!

      That is an interesting detail that you have come across. With the T3i the red eye reduction lamp and the focus assist lamp are two separate lights: the red eye reduction lamp is on the front of the camera and the focus assist lamp is the flash itself. So you can turn off the flash of the T3i in the Shooting 1 menu under Flash Control, but enable the focus assist lamp in Custom Function III-7, or vice-versa, or enable them both or disable them both. You have to manually raise the flash (press the flash button) in non-auto modes for the focus assist (bursts of light from the flash) to work when it is enabled.

      Red-eye reduction is a separate function in the T3i, that does not use the flash itself but the other lamp on front, and it can be tuned off or on in the Shooting 1 menu.

      Custom Function III-7 of the T3i will also allow you to turn off the AF assist light but enable the Infrared AF assist of an external flash – setting 3. Be sure to enable this function on the external flash.

      With the Nikon D5100 the AF assist lamp and the red-eye reduction lamp are the same lamp, thus causing this confusion.

      Reply

  6. (I moved this comment here from another section)

    I purchased the PDF version of the ebook on the canon T3i. I think it well informs the user of the camera on every aspect of it’s use. Very good..Excellent. I printed it and will use it as a guide as I transform from the XTi world to T3i world.

    I was wondering, do you have anything like this on the XTi as I gave that one to my daughter. It sure makes her look good, she has taken wonderful shots with it, but does not have the “WHY” or “How Come” behind the picture. Thanks for a great read. Brad

    Reply

  7. Hello
    very good review! thanks a lot.
    I’m still swallowing into this big hamletic doubt .. 600d or d5100?

    Because of budget I wanted to start with kit lens and I was attracted by Canon.. but few pictures I saw with purple fringing are scaring me with that.. it seems that 18-55 IS is very poor quality and 600d has not as good as nikon image post processing..

    Nikon has very good image quality.. very few aberrations even with kit lens and very good post processing .. but very few dedicated buttons, poor video mode features and .. buggy live mode!! (is in “cons” of dp review) in fact it just ignores settings like aperture in live mode!

    I was planning to use it also for movies .. so still thinking :-((

    Reply

    1. Yes, I am not a big fan of the kit lenses. People typically want to replace them soon after purchase, so why not just start with the higher quality 18-200mm?

      The purple fringing is from the lens, you are saying? Likely, as chromatic aberration is caused by a lens that doesn’t resolve (focus) all the colors at the same spot.

      I’m not sure what you mean by the post processing issues. Do you mean the in-camera processing? What sites have you seen that discuss this? I will have a look at what dpreview says.

      Yes, those Live View issues of the D5100 are annoying. But take into account if you will use Live View or not. For example, I rarely use it, so that wouldn’t be too important to me. But yes, I prefer the controls of the 600D, although you can access most every feature and control of the D5100 quickly with the Info Button and Info Screen.

      Reply

  8. Like everyone else, I appreciate the time and effort you have taken to inform and educate us on these cameras. After several weeks of research I purchased the T3i only to find that while using the viewfinder the shutter and flash worked flawlessly when the shutter was depressed. With the camera still in the same position and shooting mode (I tried several modes with a Canon rep on the phone), I turned on the LCD and attempted to take the same shot. The 18-55 lens (in AF) hunted for no less than 3 seconds before taking the picture with a strobing flash! I only had the camera for a day and am currently waiting on the replacement. Please tell me the camera was defective and not a focusing/contrast difference between the VF and the LCD, as the Canon rep. was suggesting.

    Thanks again and if all goes well with the second T3i I’ll be buying your manual for sure!

    Reply

    1. Yes, there is indeed a difference and that may not have been a defect, but rather the nature of the Live View autofocus mode you were using! Live Mode autofocusing works differently than autofocusing through the viewfinder, and as you have witnessed, Live View focusing can be slow and cumbersome. It often hunts back and forth until it finds and resolves exact focus. However, there are different Live View Autofocus Modes you can choose from, and the Quick Mode may be what you wish to use to have better results in the type of shooting situation you were working in (see below).

      The strobing flash was likely the AF-Assist Beam at work, which the camera uses to help find focus in dim lighting situations. Some cameras have a separate AF-Assist light, while the T3i uses the pop-up flash for AF-Assist. In Auto shooting mode it will automatically pop up and start assisting, and in the other modes you may have to manually raise the flash for the AF-Assist beam to operate. If you just want the AF-Assist beam and not the built-in flash to function, you can turn the flash off but raise the flash for the AF-Assist Beam when desired.

      Live Mode
      The camera uses the image sensor (not the autofocus sensor as with viewfinder shooting) to focus on the area under the large AF Point seen on the LCD Monitor. You can use the Cross Keys to move the AF Point, or the Set Button to return it to the center. Press the Shutter Button half-way to lock focus. It is often slower and more difficult to lock focus than viewfinder focusing, as you can see through simple experimentation.

      Quick Mode
      With this mode you use the multiple auto focus points, similar to the viewfinder AF Points, as displayed on the LCD Monitor. Since the camera is using the autofocus sensor to focus, it momentarily interrupts the Live View on the LCD Monitor when it flips the mirror back down to access the AF sensor. It is quicker than Live Mode but noisier and you briefly lose sight of the scene on your LCD Monitor. To select a specific AF Point, press the Q Button and then the up or down Cross Key to navigate to Manual Selection, then turn the Main Dial to select your desired AF Point. Press the Shutter Button half-way to lock focus.

      Face Live Mode
      This mode works like Live Mode but locates and focuses on faces, kind of like turning your powerful camera into a point and shoot with the face-detect feature. Press the left or right Cross Key to select a different face. Press the Shutter Button half-way to lock focus.

      Reply

  9. Thank you so much for that quick and well explained response. I expect to have the replacement camera tomorrow so I will try the different modes you outlined over the weekend. Sadly, the Canon rep. only suggested there would be a slowness in Live Mode and offered to take the camera in for service, he never once hinted to the amount of detail you just provided.

    On a separate note, I’d like to know your opinion on a telephoto lens. My budget is really tight and I’m torn between the Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS, the Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III, Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 Di LD anda couple of Sigma lenses…I don’t want to keep listing them. If all I have is $250 to spend do you have a recommendation for a 250mm or 300mm lens?

    Thank you again.

    Chris

    Reply

    1. I don’t know too much about those lenses because I have more experience with the higher-end L lenses. I do have some posts about lenses in the Lens Category which may be of assistance, but they don’t discuss those specific lenses:

      http://blog.dojoklo.com/lenses/

      Generally with lenses you get what you pay for, with a bit of additional value from the Tamron and Sigma lenses. I suggest having a look at the reviews on Amazon and B&H, as well as whatever you can find in the reviews and forums at DP Review.

      Reply

  10. Hello,

    I am new to digital SLR photography and after reading your post feels that D5100 might be good pic for me, but i am confused between D5100 and Canon 550D (600D is expensive), diff people have diff views. Which one should i go for as i seriously want to explore SLR photography.

    Rgds,
    Rajiv

    Reply

    1. Since the 550D is so similar to the 600D, the above comparison should be able to help. Either the Nikon or the Canon will work equally as well. But if you believe that you are really going to be dedicated to your photography, learn all the features and operations of the camera, and want a more advanced, versatile tool, you may want to look at the Canon 60D. You can learn more about that model here: http://blog.dojoklo.com/2011/02/20/canon-t3i-600d-vs-t2i-550d-vs-60d-vs-7d-etc/

      Reply

  11. Which of the t3i or d5100 would be best for the video aspect. I am tired of carrying a camcorder and Point and shoot. Sounds like the still aspects are so similar. Do you feel the same about video. Thinking kids sports games from the sidelines.

    Reply

    1. The problem with using a dSLR for video is that they simply do not replace camcorders. They are designed more for cinematographers to use in place of a professional video camera that would cost them $10,000, yet the dSLR still allows them to use various lenses and achieve dramatic shallow depth of field. But to do so they must put together an entire rig, including shoulder frame, follow focus, eyepiece to view LCD, microphone, sometimes an external LCD monitor. Here is a “minimal” setup, showing the shoulder frame and the follow focus wheel:
      http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CKAPR6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=pictuchang-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=B005CKAPR6

      Here is a more typical setup:
      http://www.dslrnewsshooter.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/Johnnie-and-his-rungun-simple-rig.jpg

      Although the Nikon offers full time autofocus with video, you will see that it does not work nearly as well as autofocus on a camcorder. It hunts back and forth very slowly as the noise gets picked up by the microphone. They really only work best by manually focusing. It would be incredibly challenging to follow a player and keep them in focus with either the autofocus or with manual focus. So for now it appears one must really carry both a still and video camera around for the best results.

      As far as image quality and video performance beyond what I’ve mentioned, I don’t do much video and so I can’t be of much help there.

      Reply

  12. I bought the t3i based on your review. Thanks!

    Reply

    1. Glad I could help. Be sure to have a look at my Accessories for the T3i list!
      http://blog.dojoklo.com/2011/04/01/top-10-accessories-for-your-canon-rebel-t3i-eos-600d/

      Reply

  13. Great review as I have spent the last week reading up on these 2 cameras until well past midnight and have been more confused!

    I love taking photos of landscapes, sunsets, clouds, busy streets, city buildings = anything to do with travel basically….

    Which camera would be best??

    Reply

    1. To be honest, I believe that either of these cameras will fulfill your needs very well. If none of the differences mentioned in the article are critical to you, then the next step would be to go to a local camera story and play around with each of them. Get a feel for the controls and menus, the weight and ergonomics of the bodies with different lenses that you may wish to use. If you don’t yet understand how you may be using the controls, have the sales-person show you a little of how you will likely be using them, since ergonomics involves more than just holding it in your hands and feeling the weight and grip contours.

      Reply

      1. Thanks do much for the prompt reply :)

        Reply

      2. Sorry one more question – as a beginner to SLR cameras… Would the Nikon be better for auto-focusing or is that something I shouldn’t rely on so much?

        Reply

        1. I don’t think one is much better at autofocusing than the other, but they do offer slightly different AF systems. With either you can select a single AF point, let the camera decide where to focus, or track moving subjects using all the AF points. They differ in the number of AF points and the AF area mode options for staying focused on and tracking moving subjects, but either is equally easy (or difficult) to learn and use.

          You definitely should be using autofocus, and taking control of the AF system to ensure that the camera focuses exactly where and how you want it to. Here are a couple articles on the Nikon D5100 and Canon T3i autofocus systems to introduce you to what to expect:
          http://blog.dojoklo.com/2011/06/03/taking-advantage-of-the-nikon-d5100-autofocus-system/
          http://blog.dojoklo.com/2011/09/22/taking-control-of-your-canon-autofocus-system/

        2. Thank you very much! I’m a canon fan & was pretty much set on getting the t3i but then the comparisons said Nikon was better for autofocus… I guess it really all depends on knowing how to use the camera.

  14. Hi, I’m new in DSLR and still confuse to pick one of this great cameras. If some said canon not good in pictures compare to nikon, how ‘not good’ is it? If some said nikon not good in taking video compare to canon, ho ‘not good’ is it? Because mainly i’m looking best of both world. They also said nikon lens kit is better than canon lens. So with nikon, for start i dont have to buy new lens only to get good photo result (better color etc). But in canon i have to buy better lens because canon lens kit is not really good. Is that true?

    regards,

    Reply

    1. Hello. A lot of people on forums and in reviews have said that the Nikon is better for images and the Canon is better for video, but this comparison is completely relative. It is like saying a Nissan is good for driving in the city and a Toyota is good for driving on the highway, (or some other silly comparison like that). Both of these cameras take excellent images, and I think you will find that the image quality of either one far exceeds your needs and expectations. Especially if you are new to dSLR photography, you will likely not even notice the differences or be affected by them.

      A few years ago those forums and reviews were comparing the 8 megapixel Rebel XT to the similar Nikon, and debating over which of those was “better,” and in 2 years they will still be debating over the Rebel T6i vs the Nikon D5500. Meanwhile, those who care about taking images will be too busy taking and enjoying their photos to care what the pixel peepers are saying.

      But please be aware that the Rebel T4i (650D) is expected to be announced soon, so you may wish to wait and see what it offers and how it affects the price of the T3i.

      As far as manual control for video, which is what you will want and need if you wish to seriously use it for video, the T3i has an advantage, as described above.

      I don’t know how the two kit lenses compare, but I do know that the Canon kit lens is not so great. In general with lenses you get what you pay for, so if you want a good quality lens, you should perhaps purchase the body only and then get a higher quality lens. I have several articles about choosing a lens in the Lenses section of my blog.

      Reply

  15. Thank you for your prompt reply! Before now i’m a fan of D5100, and now i think i’m gonna look around more with 600D. For better photo result we can use software like Photoshop but to get easiness in video i think i must rely on the camera, that’s where 600D prevail then D5100. I won’t but video camera because as i said before, need to take pictures and one/two times take video.

    Thanks for you recommendation, i still dont know what would i pic but your information give me more grip of what i want.

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