1. I enjoyed your book on the Nikon D600 and review it often. I have a new problem that started unexpectedly. When I look in the view finder, the focus area is present and lights up I red when I partially press the shutter; however, now there is a larger rectangle that is also present that also lights up red. What is and how do I remove it? Thanks for your help.


    1. Hello, thanks for your nice feedback! I believe that you are seeing the DX crop area, and thus you are capturing cropped images, not making use of the full-frame FX sensor. You may have attached a DX lens. Check the Image Area item of the Shooting Menu. If you have Auto DX Crop set for On, then the DX crop will apply with a DX lens attached. If you have this Off, then use the “Choose image area” item next to choose FX in order to use your full sensor.

      PS, I am going to move this question to the D600 section of the blog soon.

      Also, please feel free to submit a review of the guide on Amazon, where I offer the Kindle version – thanks!


    2. Hi, just want to let you know how happy I am with 70D guide. This covers so much more than the manual and makes much more sense. I’ve created a few tiny operating guides in my time and know just how much work and research has gone into this massive and concise work.
      As far as I’m concerned the ebook is an absolute bargain for the price and will without a doubt will enrich my user experience.


      1. Thank you very much for your kind feedback! Please feel free to share your review on Amazon – thanks!

        Let me know if you have any questions about the camera or guide. (PS I am going to move this comment over to the 70D page eventually)


      2. Very informative . I am having a problem though. When I had the 600 and using Photoshop elements 11. there was no problem with raw conversion.
        But now with the 610 and PSE 11 program does not recognize file.
        Any suggestions?


        1. Hello, when a new camera comes out, Adobe has to update their Adobe Camera RAW software, and then you need to update your Adobe software, if possible, to incorporate this new convertor. (They sometimes don’t offer updates for non-current versions.)


          If that doesn’t work, you can use the Adobe DNG converter (The Adobe DNG Converter is a free utility that enables you to easily convert camera-specific raw files from more than 350 cameras to the more universal DNG raw format.)


          Or you can use the Nikon View NX2 software that came with the camera to view and convert RAW files.


        2. Hi Doug, your book on the Nikon 610 Experience is excellent. It has really helped me to make the transition from the D300 to the D610 – but I do have one question. When I use Live View for macro in low light and small apertures, the LCD is too dim to use. If I turn Live View “off”, open the aperture, turn Live View back “on”, reset the aperture to my desired setting, then LCD then stays bright. I repeat this process for every picture when using LV. Is this correct? Am I missing something – like a menu setting? – or is this just the nature of this camera?



          1. Hello, thank you for the nice feedback on the book! Regarding the aperture, that is indeed an unfortunate feature of the D600 and D610. You can read a bit about it here:


            PS – Please feel free to write a review of the D610 book on Amazon, where I offer the Kindle version – thanks! :)

            (also, I am going to move these comments over to one of the D610 pages)


          2. Doug,

            I purchased your new Nikon Df Experience. Without a doubt, the best Nikon Manual I have ever invested in. I down loaded the e-book to my Amazon Kindle DX and then loaded it onto my 17″ MacbookPro, iMac 27″ and my Samsung GS4.

            Your style is a joy to read, incorporating your Df Experience, the Nikon Owners Manual and Df camera together in a way only a well informed Master Photographer could. Your hands on approach works very well for me. I can tell you really had a great experience yourself using the DF! ;-) I own the F, FTN, FE, FE2,—- F6, D700, D800 and now 2 DF’s (1 Black & 1 Silver) These 2 have become my favorite over all my previous Nikons over 50 years. They are a pure joy to shoot… I have posted my 5 Star reports on Amazon.com, The Nikonian’s and passing the word to other local Nikon and other Photog groups here in Southern California.

            Wish you much success in Photography (Outstanding Work by the way) and also with the E-Book Experience Manuals >>>———>

            Thank You Doug, “Job Well Done Photog!”

            V/R The PhotogDog
            Kent M. Whitney


          3. Hi Doug,

            I just purchased your book on 70D experience. That is a really good book. Once I read your book, I returned one DVD I just purchased before purchasing your book. Thank you so much.

            One question on 70D video shooting, sometimes when I shoot at 1920 30fps All-I, the video shooting was shut off automatically only at 30 sec. Switching to IPB it is fine. However sometimes when I shoot the video at home, there is no this issue. I am using SD card class 10 30MB/s. Could you please advise me what is the issue? I cannot find the answer from your book.

            Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.




            1. Hello, I’m glad you have found the book helpful! I am not sure why the video recording is stopping, other than an issue with the memory card. The camera needs at least a 20 MB/s card when using ALL-I, or else movie recording will stop. So perhaps the card you are using is not actually recording at 30 MB/s as advertised. Are you using a name-brand card (SanDisk or Lexar, etc.?) If it is an inexpensive card, it may not actually function at the speed it claims. Perhaps try using a SanDisk 45 MB/s card.


            2. Doug, I found your book to be very useful. Any idea or sites to get help on linking the 70D to an iPad. Your directions worked great for the iPhone but unable to link my iPad.



              1. Hello, I’m glad you found it to be helpful! Setting up the Wi-Fi connection to the iPad should be the same as with the iPhone. In fact, I used an iPad as I wrote my description. The issue may be that you need to set up a new connection on the camera (Review/change settings) and run through the connection menus, and enter the new encryption key in the iPad. If you are unable to access the 70D’s “network” on the iPad, you may also need to first tell the iPad to forget that network connection with the 70D, and then run through it again and create a new network connection. Let me know where you are running into trouble.


              2. The Canon 6D Experience is really very good.

                However, you state (in sections 8.2 and 8.3) that the Partial Metering and Spot Metering areas are 6.2% and 1.5%, respectively. In the Canon Manual for the 6D, it states that these areas are 8.0% and 3.5%, respectively.

                Which is correct?



                1. Hello, Thanks for pointing that out, I will correct that. The Canon manual is correct with its specifications.


                2. Hi Doug,

                  I purchased your book on D810 experience. That book is fantastic and very very helpful.

                  What is your opinion about the thermal noise problem of this camera? Nikon officially confirmed that “noise (bright spots) are sometimes (!) noticeable in long exposures, and in some images captured at an Image area setting of 1.2x(30×20)”. Nikon offers the repair of the affected cameras but after this repair, the occurrence of bright spots is only reduced and not eliminated!!! According to some opinions this fact discredite D810 as a professional camera.




                  1. Hello, I’m glad you are finding the book helpful!

                    Regarding the thermal noise issue, one actually has to go through a lot of effort to recreate and view the issue (with a “not-fixed” D810):

                    “Turn off Long Exposure Noise Reduction by going to Shooting Menu -> Long Exposure NR -> OFF. Take a long exposure of 20-30 seconds at ISO 64 or 100 of a dark subject in RAW format. Import the image into Lightroom or Nikon Capture NX-D. Find a dark / shadow area and recover some shadow details (+2 EV or +100 in Shadow slider will do). Adjust the Clarity slider to +50 and increase Sharpness levels. Look at the shadow area at pixel level (100% zoom). You should notice spots of different colors.”

                    From what I have been reading, users have been very satisfied with the “fix,” including the tester who first discovered it:

                    “…which takes care of this issue completely. We never looked at the issue as a serious problem in the first place, because it was only visible at very long exposures and it could be taken care of by turning the Long Exposure Noise Reduction feature on.”

                    Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-d810/8#ixzz3DCyFlZfL

                    I wasn’t aware that it continues to be an issue, so I will have to look into that. If you work in situations where you often need to take long exposure images over 20 seconds, I would suggest evaluating the results from an updated D810 and see if they are going to be unacceptable for your needs. And I would suggest using Long Exposure NR, not turning it off, when taking long exposures – some noise and bright spots are inevitable when taking a long exposure with any current camera. If you rarely or never take 20-second exposures, the thermal noise issue really shouldn’t be much of a concern.


                  2. Hello Doug, thank you very much for your remarks and explanations. Your opinion is very important for me.

                    I find it uncomfortable and unacceptable to take photo without long exposures (with professional camera, one of the main models of Nikon!). That is a big problem for landscape photographers, astrophotographers and so on… Turning LENR ON helps only partly with remowing the noise and each shot will be longer. In this case LENR ON is not a good solution for many photographers.

                    The worst information for users of affected D810 is that after firmware update bright spots will not definitely disappear from the picture and that very probably it is a manufacturing, hardware defekt and conceptional, technological mistake.

                    With best regards



                    1. Yes, it will certainly affect landscape and astrophotographers if the bright spots continue to be a problem. For a much better technical assessment of the D810 issue, I recommend that you get in touch with Nasim over at Photography Life. He was the one who uncovered the problem, and he has does some extensive lab testing of the sensor. He will be better able to tell you if it continues to be an issue, and he is typically very responsive to comments and emails: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-d810/8#ixzz3DCyFlZfL



Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>